Cornwall is known for its spectacular scenery, tiny fishing harbours, sandy beaches and surfing. Outside the tourist hot spots it has an intricate landscape full of life, where the ancient meets the modern. This guide takes you deep into this landscape, to old forgotten places and new exciting venues, from Land’s End to the Rame Peninsula, from Lizard Point to Bude.

Come with us from the old – to where Excalibur was thrown into the lake hundreds of years ago – to the modern – to the settings for the Poldark TV series. Come with us from the tiny – the tombstone of Alfred Wallis – to the huge – the intricate folded rocks on Millook beach. Join us from the noisy – Trevithick’s Puffing Devil – to the quiet – the tranquil Japanese garden.

Cornwall has changed. It is an intriguing mix of modern gastronomy, mining heritage, ancient ruins, literary festivals, traditional dances and brand-new technology. This guide is a personal selection of the best places, a mix to cover all tastes; please join us on our journey.