From 1917 19, the Tharaud brothers immersed themselves in Morocco while observing the determined imposition of the French Protectorate at first hand. With unique access to both colonial manoeuvres and a now-vanished Moroccan way of life, they settled for periods in Marrakesh, Rabat and Fez to absorb and observe. We join them on visits to the Sultan one day and to the shrine of Sidi Ben Achir part shrine, part mental asylum on another. They watch the son and heir of the Glaoui dynasty die from wounds received in a mountain battle, and lovers weaving and ducking across the rooftops of Fez to reach their trysting place. This is the first translation of these vivacious works into English, giving access to the majesty, the squalor and above all the liveliness of this extraordinary period of Moroccan history.